May 22, 2024 - Classic Italy
San Gimignano

Our next hilltop town was San Gimignano, about a two-hour drive northwest of Perugia, through the rolling Tuscan hills.  San Gimignano is famous for its medieval towers, built by the town's well-to-do in the 12th century.

The bus dropped us off at the Piazza Martiri di Montemaggio at the south part of town.

"San Gimignano lies about 25 miles from both Siena and Florence, a day's trek for pilgrims enroute to those cities, and on a naturally fortified hilltop that encouraged settlement.  The town's walls were built in the 13th century, and gates like this helped regulated who came and went."
   
But first we checked out some local street entertainment.  Rick Steves calls San Gimignano a "perfectly preserved tourist trap".  Still still worth visiting though, he says.  We agree.
   
We started our walking tour at the Porta San Giovanni, pictured here.
   
Looking out over the rolling hills of Tuscany.
   

In the 3rd century BC a small Etruscan village stood on the site of San Gimignano.
 
In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance era, it was a stopping point for Catholic pilgrims on their way to Rome and the Vatican, as it sits on the medieval Via Francigena.
 
In 1199, the city made itself independent of the bishops of Volterra and established a podestà, and set about enriching the commune with churches and public buildings. However, the peace of the town was disturbed for the next two centuries by conflict between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines, and family rivalries within San Gimignano.  This resulted in competing families building tower houses of increasingly greater heights. Towards the end of the Medieval period, there were 72 tower houses in number, up to 230 feet tall. 
 
The city flourished until 1348, when it was struck by the Black Death that affected all of Europe, and about half the townsfolk died.  The town submitted to the rule of Florence.  There was little subsequent development, and San Gimignano remained preserved in its medieval state until the 19th century, when its status as a touristic and artistic resort began to be recognised.
 
   

 

At lower left, is the massive inner wall, built 200 years before the outerwall.

At right is our first look at one of the towers the town is famous for.
   
We arrive in Piazza della Cisterna, the picturesque town square, named for the cistern that is served by the old well standing in the center of this square.
   
At center, is the cistern that is served by the old well standing in the center of this square, for which the square is named.
   
World's most famous gelato?  Who would fall for such a gimmick?
   
Whoops!
 
Coincidentally, there is another Gelato place on the square that claims it sells the world's best Gelato.  The two businesses are currently in litigation.
   

San Giovanni had an amazing 72 of these towers at one point.  Only 14 survive.  The one at City Hall can be climbed but we did not do it.

Per Rick Steves:  "Some of the original towers were just empty, chimney-like structures built to boost noble egos, while others were actually the forts of wealthy families.
   

Per Rick Steves:  "Some of the original towers were just empty, chimney-like structures built to boost noble egos, while others were actually the forts of wealthy families.  Before effective city walls were developed, rich people needed to fortify their own homes.  These towers provided a handy refuge when ruffians and rival city-states were sacking the town.  If under attack, tower owners would set fire to the external wooden staircase, leaving the sole entrance unreachable a story up; inside, fleeing nobles pulled up behind them the ladders that connected each level, leaving invaders no way to reach the stronghold at the tower's top.  Even after town walls were built, the towers continued to rise -- now to fortify noble families feuding within a town.

Photo by LigaDue from Wikipedia.
   

At the Piazza del Duomo, is the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, a Roman Catholic collegiate church and minor basilica, built in the 12th-century.

"Since before there was belato, people have lounged on these steps."  ... Rick Steves
   
More towers off the Piazza del Duomo.
   
Lynnette takes shelter during a brief rain squall.
   
Everywhere you looked there were towers in this part of town.
   
We climbed to the top of a little hill, the Parco della Rocca, an old ruined medieval fortress, with nice views of the countryside and San Gimignano's skyline.
   
 
   
A good look at the "skyline".
   
San Gimignano is surrounded by olives, grapes, and cypress trees.
   
Well look at this!  The sun has come out.
   
We didn't have a lot of time in San Gimignano, soon it was time to head back to the bus.
   

Outside the city walls is a little park with a memorial to those in the town who died in World War II.

We departed San Gimignano in the bus and continued northwest to Pisa, which is very close to the coast.
   
An aerial view of San Gimignano.  We entered the town on the far right, and walked to the area of the towers.
 
Photo by Chensiyuan from Wikipedia.
   
 
   
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